Valldemossa

Valldemossa is the most photographed village on the island, full of tour buses between 10 and 17. The usual advice: come early or late. It actually works — half past eight in the morning the place is almost empty, stone houses bathed in soft morning light, alleys smelling of wet stone, the monastery bell ringing. Breakfast at Ca'n Molinas, their coca de patata comes warm from the oven. At 10 the buses arrive, head on to Deià or the Mirador de ses Puntes for the long view. Or stay until 18 when everything turns quiet again and the evening light hits the terraces.