Valldemossa off the rush hours — which hours bring the quiet
Valldemossa between 10 and 17 is bus tourism. Before and after it's one of the quietest mountain villages on the island.
Every few weeks someone writes Valldemossa is overrun and ruined. Half true. Between 10 and 17 the village is packed — coach buses stop at the parking on the outskirts, fifty people walk through the same alley to the monastery at the same time, the cafe on the square is full of people eating the same ice cream. That part is unpleasant.
The other half: early morning and after six in the evening Valldemossa is something else entirely. Quiet street. Stone houses in that soft golden light the Tramuntana slope reflects. The monastery bell rings on the hour, otherwise you hear almost nothing.
The morning from eight
If you like it, get up and leave Palma shortly after seven. Half an hour on the Ma-1110, the drive itself is already nice, first through a few villages, then the road climbs and you see Valldemossa from afar sitting on a hill. Shortly after eight you're up top, park at the lot below (still empty and free at that hour) and walk up.
Ca'n Molinas opens at half past eight. That's the bakery at the lower end of the main alley, which claims to have invented Coca de Patata (every village claims it for their own recipe, but it's pretty good here). The potato coca is a slightly sweet bread, airy, with powdered sugar, warm from the oven. With a coffee outside at one of the three tables. Nineteen euros for two people, including a second coca because you eat the first too fast.
The two hours that work
If you want to see the Chopin room and monastery, go in first at half past nine, then it's empty, and you have the cell for yourself for ten minutes. If you don't want the monastery: head to the alleys above the main street. People live there, the flower pots are real, laundry hangs, the door at the end is someone's private entrance. Walk through respectfully and nobody minds.
The alternative is evening. Around six-thirty the light tips to orange, the bus groups are gone, the restaurants set their tables again, and you have the village for yourself. Es Petit Mirador on Plaça de la Cartoixa has a small terrace with a view of the valley, one of the best evening terraces on the island if you don't get sidetracked.
“You can save any Mallorca village if you visit at the right hour. You can't save any if you come with the buses.”
If you want to do more
- Camí de s'Arxiduc is the classic day hike above the village. Twelve kilometers round trip, about four hours, spectacular view from Es Caragolí.
- Deià is ten minutes further along the coast road — smaller village, Robert Graves lived there, a bit pricier, but Cala Deià is worth an afternoon.
- Port de Valldemossa is the fishing village down at the water. Serpentines down, one bar, a few boats. No bus route.
Mountain village with Carthusian monastery where Chopin spent winter 1838/39. Touristy — but before 10 and after 18 completely different.
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